Building Envelope: Ceilings and Roofs

In this post, we'll explore how patterns influenced our building envelope, focusing primarily on ceilings and the roof. (As before, problem descriptions and solutions — the first two bullet points of each section — are from A Pattern Language.)

Sheltering roof (117):

• Problem: The roof plays a primal role in our lives. The most primitive buildings are nothing but a roof. If the roof is hidden, if its presence cannot be felt around the building or if it cannot be used, then people will lack a fundamental sense of shelter.
• Therefore: Slope the roof or make a vault of it, make its entire surface visible, and bring the eaves of the roof down low, as low as 6'0" or 6'6" at places like the entrance, where people pause. Build the top story of each wing right into the roof, so that the roof does not only cover it, but actually surrounds it.
• In our home: It would be an understatement to say that modern-styling does not lend themselves to this pattern. So we asked ourselves, "What is the essence of this pattern?"
  
  Patterns of Home, a modernized look at some of the home oriented patterns in A Pattern Language, gives a clue. The roof should, above all, provide a sense of shelter. It should provide a sense of connection between the inside and the outside. A Pattern Language focuses on achieving this via living space within the roof, but another way to achieve this is to have the same roof surface expressed inside and out.
  
  Our home has two roof lines — the top and a midline. Both are true roof surfaces in that they cover interior space that is not covered by the other. Both roof lines are expressed inside and outside the house. The lower roof line defines both an exterior midline and the maximum ceiling height on the main floor. The butterfly shape of the upper roof is also expressed inside; most of the rooms upstairs have a slanted roof that continues the external expression of the butterfly roof.
  
  Equally important is the sense of indoor/outdoor transition that our roof gives at two key locations, both shown below. The picture on the lower left shows how the roof itself provides protection over our upstairs deck. The picture on the lower right shows the same sense of protection over the main entry (and as the top picture shows, the sense of that protection being part of the roof is even greater now that the roof trim has been installed).
  
  In retrospect, I would have tweaked the roof design a bit to give it a greater sense of shelter, even within the confines of a butterfly roof. The mid-line roof does not shelter the main floor deck as effectively as it does the entry, and it does not continue on the north side or fully around the west side. Not continuing the middle roof line all the way around weakened the sense of the roof really being part of the home. However, from the east and south sides, we did pretty well considering the inherent limitations of the style we had settled on.

Ceiling height variety (190):

• Problem: A building in which the ceiling heights are all the same is virtually incapable of making people feel comfortable.
• Therefore: Vary the ceiling heights continuously throughout the building, especially between rooms which open into each other, so that the relative intimacy of different spaces can be felt. In particular, make ceilings high in rooms which are public or meant for large gatherings (10 to 12 feet), lower in rooms for smaller gatherings (7 to 9 feet), and very low in rooms or alcoves for one or two people (6 to 7 feet).
• In our home: I would say that we achieved the minimum viable amount of ceiling height variety needed to say that we have variety. Much to my sadness, we don't have any nooks or alcoves which take advantage of a lowered ceiling to make them feel cozier. However, we do do use ceiling height to provide social cues and, on occasion, to give a sense of grandeur.
  
  The main floor has 10' ceilings. This is high, but anything lower would feel low in this broad, open space. To keep this area from feeling cavernous and undifferentiated, we vary the ceiling height. The entry is raised above the main floor. This gives a sense of compression and expansion that emphasizes the height of the main living area. The area over the kitchen is soffited down to differentiate that space from the dining area adjacent to it (the diagram below shows the kitchen soffit, but that only goes part way across the ceiling). The living room has a support beam which provides a natural gateway separating that space.
  
  
  
  The bedrooms have a lower 8' ceiling height to match their more intimate scale. To give a sense of the roof from the inside, all of the bedrooms have a ceiling line which follows the butterfly roof. This, along with window placement, gives a feeling of opening the rooms to the view outside.
  
  
  
  The most dramatic use of ceiling height variety is in our stair tower. The stair tower stretches the whole height of the building, and the open tread stairs really allow you to get a sense of the height of the structure. The picture below, which shows the upper 1.5 stories of the stair tower, gives a feel for the sense of height it brings to our home.

The next post will cover openings in the building envelope for windows and doors.

Insulation and Drywall

Insulation

Insulation completes the rough-in stage of the house. It and drywall mark the transition between focusing on the structure of the home to focusing on the details.

Spray foam in the ceiling

To ensure a tightly sealed home, we had foam sprayed into the places where ceiling joists could expose a gap to the exterior, e.g., the ends of ceiling joists that extrude outside and the center beam of the roof. Foam was also sprayed onto some of the foundation walls that protrude into the interior.

Insulation batts

Next the insulation batts went in. All of the batts are formaldehyde-free fiberglass. We insulated all of the interior walls with R-11 and R-13 for sound deadening (more on our soundproofing). This is enough insulation to stop some sound, but not enough for heat insulation. The external walls use R-21 insulation for better thermal control. Insulation was installed throughout the house, including under the floor in the crawlspace and the garage.

Drywall

Drywall starts the interior finishing stage. It covers up the bones of the house, and provides a blank canvas for the interior.

The drywall process is complex. The goal is to achieve flat, seamless surfaces for the walls and ceiling. The quality level of the drywall, from 0-5, specifies how flat and level it is. Level 3 is about the minimum you'd want inside a house, and level 4 is probably more normal for quality construction. Our house is getting level 5 drywall throughout, which allows us to avoid any texture on the wall. Instead, we have a smooth surface that will just be covered with paint. This increases light reflection, especially in windows up against the ceiling where the light may be coming in nearly parallel to the drywall surface. Wikipedia has more details about all the levels.

Getting this level of smoothness takes many steps:

1. 

   Floor markings indicating what's in the walls and ceilings

   Level the studs: The studs need to be level enough to avoid creating bows or bends in the drywall. In our case, at least one stud had to be removed and replaced because it was warped.

2. 

   Drywall, just hung.
   Notice the roughness of the corners and seams.

   Hang the sheetrock: Boards are cut and screwed in to the studs such that all of the walls and ceilings are covered by the sheetrock. Holes for lights, outlets, vents, and any other openings in the wall are cut at this stage. Since it is easy to lose items behind drywall, the installers marked everything out on the floor before any sheetrock went up.
   The sheetrock at this stage is pretty rough. Edges, especially corners, can be uneven. Screws are sunk a bit into the drywall, making small depressions. There are gaps between sheets and around cut-outs. It looks like a bunch of panels stuck on the walls. This makes the rooms feel a lot smaller than before.

3. 

   Tape and mud

   Seal the gaps: The next step is to seal up all the gaps and start evening the surface. This is done using mud, tape, and corner strips. Mud is put in-between the gaps in the sheetrock, and tape is embedded to provide some structural support. Particularly for inset corners, the tape helps to make a sharp right-angle. Mud is spread lightly over the screw holes to bring them up to level with the sheetrock. Corner strips are used for outset corners. These are a thin piece of metal at a right angle, with some tape over that. Putting these over outset corners and applying mud covers up the rough edges of the drywall, and provides a sharp, clean corner. At this point, the walls start to look more coherent, and the space opens up a bit.

4. 

   Corners and more mud

   More mud: Two more layers of mud are applied as-needed to level everything out, especially the corner strips and tape, which may have slight raised edges otherwise. The edges of openings, such as can lights, are covered and leveled with mud. Each layer of mud needs to dry, so the house is warmed up and let sit for a day or two.

5. 

   The smoothing layers

   Smoothing coats: The final step is to add two full coats of material to smooth and level the dry wall. This was done using Smooth-Wall, a spray-on self-leveling coating that brings the drywall up to level 5. It serves as a polyvinyl acetate (PVA), which provides a basic primer coat, and makes everything a uniform material. These coats are just a primer and leveler, so the walls aren't meant to look perfect. There is a slight variation in color due to the drywall, and a slight texture on the walls. Both of these will be cleaned up with a couple layers of paint.

At this point, the walls and ceilings become a single smooth, level piece. The rooms are well-defined, and the surface looks very close to its final state. The perspective of the rooms change a bit; the ceiling height on the main level is more apparent, as is the shape of the soffits, columns, and doorways. The walls are now ready for paint.

Site Layout

Patterns made relatively few contributions to our general site layout. The shape of our lot, its relation to the street and utilities, and the setbacks and easements imposed by the city combined to make the placing of our house fairly obvious: our house would be at the east end of a long east/west oriented lot. Fortunately, these constraints ended up being fairly consistent with what we wanted out of the site layout patterns. (As before, problem descriptions and solutions -- the first two bullet points of each section -- are from A Pattern Language.)

Site repair (104):

• Problem: Buildings must always be built on those parts of the land which are in the worst condition, not the best.
• Therefore: On no account place the buildings in the places which are most beautiful. If fact, do the opposite. Consider the site and its buildings as a single living eco-system. Leave those areas that are the most precious, beautiful, comfortable, and healthy as they are, and build new structures in those parts of the site which are least pleasant now.
• For our home: The site naturally lent itself to fulfilling this pattern. Our lot is one portion of what was once a larger lot. The east side of our property had been disturbed by the construction of two new homes to the north. The west side is mostly wooded and partially a buffer zone for a nearby critical slope. Based on these constraints, it was natural to leave the wooded area intact and build on the disturbed land.

South facing outdoors (105):

• Problem: People use open space if it is sunny, and do not use it if it isn't, in all but desert climates.
• Therefore: Always place buildings to the north of the outdoor spaces that go with them, and keep the outdoor spaces to the south. Never leave a deep band of shade between the building and the sunny part of the outdoors.
• In our home: Our site is long east-west and short north-south, so we do not have a lot of flexibility for north/south siting. Part of the southern side of the property is taken by easements for a pedestrian path and for utilities. We have trees along the south western edge of our property, which decreases the amount of sunlight available. Despite the difficulties, we still have a sunny front yard in the east and a backyard in the west filled with tree-filtered sunlight. Neither requires going through deeply shaded areas for access. The shaded north side will be a terraced path down to the back yard.

Main entrance (110):

• Problem: Placing the main entrance (or main entrances) is perhaps the single most important step you take during the evolution of a building plan.
• Therefore: Place the main entrance of the building at a point where it can be seen immediately from the main avenues of approach and give it a bold, visible shape which stands out in front of the building.
• In our home: The location of the main entry was constrained by where we could put the garage (only on the north side). The garage also causes the entry to be nestled in instead of standing out in front of the building. We adapted to this difficulty and the site's natural elevation change by adding a large, bold stairway down to the front door. This extends the entry out so that it can be seen from all three approaches (driveway, sidewalk, and pedestrian path).

Entrance transition (112):

• Problem: Buildings, and especially houses, with a graceful transition between the street and the inside, are more tranquil than those which open directly off the street.
• Therefore: Make a transition space between the street and the front door. Bring the path which connects street and entrance through this transition space and mark it with a change of light, a change of sound, a change of direction, a change of surface, a change of level, perhaps by gateways which make a change of enclosure, and above all with a change of view.
• In our home: The design and placement of the entry were a good start for this pattern. The entry stairs (on the left in the image below) provide a natural change of level, material, and view. However, we need to make sure that this connects to all of the approaches. To aid in this, we are planning on adding some stairs from the sidewalk to the entry. These will provide a connection and allow us to add landscaping to further emphasize the sense of transition.

Car connection (113):

• Problem: The process of arriving in a house, and leaving it, is fundamental to our daily lives; and very often it involves a car. But the place where cars connect to houses, far from being important and beautiful, is often off to one side and neglected.
• Therefore: Place the parking place for the car and the main entrance, in such a relation to each other, that the shortest route from the parked car into the house, both to the kitchen and to the living rooms, is always through the main entrance. Make the parking place for the car into an actual room which makes a positive and graceful place where the car stands, not just a gap in the terrain.
• In our home: This pattern had a large influence on the design of our entry sequence. This pattern and past experience convinced us that we really didn't want to have multiple main entries into the home. We decided to just have one — there isn't even a door directly inside from the garage. The driveway, garage, and other approaches all funnel into the single (covered) entry. Architecturally, the car connection is not a positive place (i.e., enclosed on multiple sides). however, we are planning on using garden features to give it a feel of enclosure.

Next up in out pattern posts will be a discussion of the patterns that influenced our building envelope.

Our pattern language: Zones

Once upon a time, we spoke of how we narrowed down the 253 patterns in A Pattern Language down to the ~70 that we felt were most relevant to our home. Today we want to go into more detail about those patterns, starting with the "big moves", those patterns that underlie our sense of place.

Our home begins with

House for a small family (76):

• Problem: In a house for a small family, it is the relationship between children and adults which is most critical.
• Therefore: Give the house three distinct parts: a realm for the parents, a realm for the children, and a common area. Conceive these three realms as roughly similar in size, with the commons the largest.^[1]

This overarching pattern leads naturally to three others: Common areas at the heart, Couple's realm, and Children's realm.

Common areas at the heart (129):

• Problem: No social group — whether a family, a work group, or a school group — can survive without constant informal contact among its members.
• Therefore: Create a single common area for every social group. Locate it at the center of gravity of all the spaces the group occupies, and in such a way that the paths which go in and out of the building lie tangent to it.
• In our home: Our open great room acts as the heart of our home. It lies tangent to the main entry (on the right, below) and, less directly, to the back entry (at the bottom of the stairs to the left). We have other shared spaces, but this one is truly the heart of the home.

Common areas at the heart of our main floor

Couple's realm (136):

• Problem: The presence of children in a family often destroys the closeness and the special privacy which a man and wife need together.^[2]
• Therefore: Make a special part of the house distinct from the common areas and all the children's rooms, where the man and woman of the house can be together in private. Give this place a quick path to the children's rooms, but, at all costs, make it a distinctly separate realm.
• In our home: The couple's realm is a distinct space from the rest of the home. It's more than just a bedroom — our realm is meant to be an area where we can comfortably spend time alone together. It is directly across the hall from the children's realm, making that realm distinct but accessible.

Couple's realm and Children's realm upstairs

Children's realm (137):

• Problem: If children do not have space to release a tremendous amount of energy when they need to, they will drive themselves and everybody else in the family up the wall.
• Therefore: Start by placing the small area which will belong entirely to the children — the cluster of their beds. Place it in a separate position toward the back of the house, and in such a way that a continuous play space can made from this cluster to the street, almost like a wide swath inside the house, muddy, toys strewn along the way, touching those family rooms which children need — the bathroom and the kitchen most of all — passing the common area along one side (but leaving quiet sitting areas and the couple's realm entirely separate and inviolate), reaching out to the street, either through its own door or through the entrace room, and ending in an outdoor room, connected to the street, and sheltered, and large enough so that the children can play in it when it rains, yet still be outdoors.
• In our home: This is a detailed pattern. We took what was most important to us. The children's realm is a distinctly separate space. It does have access to the outdoors without cutting through the common space (by the stairs and back door), but, since that path uses the common stair case, the access itself is only weakly part of the children's realm.

These patterns describe the defining zones of our home. In the next post, we'll look at some structures that define the physical layout of our home.

^[1] All of the patterns in have the form: context; problem statement; discussion; conclusion; related patterns. Our pattern posts will have just the problem statement and conclusion; we refer you to the book for the rest

^[2] Yes, this book, published in 1977, is full of heteronormative assumptions. Just try to ignore them.